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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.